My Viking made my shoulder pads for me. My right and left shoulders are slightly different in size, so I can't use commercially available shoulder pads. Luckily, they are relatively easy to make. He took some wool felt and shaped them, added padding, etc.,. We tried them out in the jacket shell and once he was happy with the look, I tailor stitched the pads using the sewing machine.
Then it was a matter of shaping the shoulder pads slightly with a bit of heat, then sewing it into the shoulders. Luckily, wool felt is easily shape-able using a tailor's ham and a warm iron.
Once the shoulder pads were firmly in place, it was a matter of adding the facings & linings into the garment. Normally, for modern clothing, lining for clothes is bag-lined(link), however, I opted to do a more tailored techniques, which involved a lot of hand-sewing. And hand-sewing always take a lot longer to accomplish; partly because it involves a lot of futzing.
The inside of the jacket has two parts, the facing and the lining. Both line the inside of the jacket, but are made of different materials.
- The facings are the inside of the jacket that can be seen, such as the turn of the collar. Consequently, they are made out of the same material as the fabric of the coat.
- The lining of the jacket is what most people are familiar with, and is usually made out of lining fabric.
The jacket facings have an inner welt pocket, which needed to be made before it can be attached to the coat. I used scrap fabric to do the welts and lined them up as much as possible.
Handsewing the body lining was right-pain-in-the-arse, and it took several hours to complete, but the end result is looking pretty good.
Now, I just have to finish adding the sleeve lining.... (sigh). I hate sleeves.