Friday, June 27, 2014

SDCC Masquerade Project #6 - The 10th Doctor Who Suit - Finishing the Body

After the front pattern pieces were finished -- adding all of the pockets, interfacing, and padding, it was time to cut out the side pieces and back pieces in order to match the stripes.

Luckily, the side and back pieces required less prepatory work than the front pieces, but it still required some work.

There are two side pieces (Left & Right) that were the easiest to assemble. Each side needed an interface piece, which was easily basted onto the fabric via machine.

The two back pieces (Left & Right) required slightly more work. I had modified the back pieces to include a back vent (per the actual costume worn by the actor).  The original Vogue pattern has side vents, which I debated on removing from the costume, but my Viking pointed out that I, as a woman, have hips, and therefore need a little bit more room than the average male around that area. Plus, keeping the side vents would allow for a little bit more of movement than just a back vent. So, after some consideration, I elected to keep both of vents.

I used some scrap paper to create a back vent for the jacket (which was subsequently just taped onto the original.)

The two back pieces were sewn together and another piece of horsehair canvas needed to be added to the assembled back piece. This piece came from the shoulder seam to just below my shoulder blades.

It was machine basted onto it along the edges, but it did require a minimal amount of padstitching around the neck edges (for about an inch) and around the armscye edges to help keep in place. (The original Vogue instructions don't actually tell you to do this part, but I know from past experience -- as well as double-checking myself on my tailoring books -- that this step helps makes the jacket lay better.)

Once everything was interlined and basted into place, I could start sewing the side/back pieces to the front to form the shell of the coat.

It pleases me to no end when stripes match up.

Here's the completed body (sans sleeves).

Now, onto the hard part...the sleeves....